Wednesday, December 29, 2010

Finally, the reindeer people - Transfer from National Geographic

 Cultural Circle of the deer tribe as the vice ring master, always concerned about where the articles and news. I look forward to one day talk to them deep into the hunters among the exchanges, experience the culture there.
Last reindeer National
Posted: 2009-10-29 17:21 | On: webmaster | Source: Original site | Views: 530 times
(Full Text copyright article, Ming source, author and web site.)
author / Xie Yuanyuan
Photo / Gao Ming
Edit / Ai Shaoqiang
2003 年 10 months to October 2004, I used the year of the Ao Lu conducted a field survey Ewenki quaint. Hulunbeier from Inner Mongolia Hailar District to the City of Root River City (the original Ergun Banner), I caught up with where the most beautiful season, all the way colorful shades of green, clear dark yellow, gorgeous purple indifferent, Meng Meng faint blue, which is also painted many different colors of nature's beauty; from green and yellow of the grassland into emerald green, fuchsia bushes, and then to yellow pine needles, swaying with the yellow leaves year-round green leaves of the camphor birch and pine forests, rich landscape along the northern border presents eleven are really a feast for the eyes; a blue sky and a silhouetted against the deep blue water around the highway, wind flow around the bush, to the quiet of the forest added some Smart. The pristine colors made me feel really like to fairy tale world. my heart could not help envy the people living here. At the threshold of the root r. western suburbs of the city, suddenly in a gray house soil soil zone shows a bright, red, white and blue in the bungalow with.
that a cottage was in August 2003 after the overall ecological migrants Ao Lu Ewenki quaint rural residential areas. The new AO is very quiet around town, who did not see the road base, rows of houses all around the chest-high outside the black iron fence, the huge aluminum window frames reflected the intense autumn sun edge, to the house from the outside you can view a figure walking, and some homes were blocked by a tight curtain.
I went Aoluguya village primary school, where my age more young teacher, I talk to them: twenty-eight-year-old male teacher smiled and said: ; no change in lifestyle, living in the mountain, the only child into a gas burning Pan, phone into a shower, latrine into a flush toilet, heated kang firewall into a radiator; reindeer, or in the mountains stocking, hunters still live in tents in the mountains. . He told me his mother was not at home, to let deer hunters to the point.
recess Zhang invited me to his house to drink water. in the way he told me he sister at home, has a sister named Ewenki Deke Li, TB is the township hospital accounting, or the Root River Literary Federation's director, would say Ewenki so, before training at the Lu Xun Art Institute had published a lot of literary works. from Zhang's painted, I feel admiration for his sister, sister in his eyes is very important to this nation a character.
talking to to his home, interior floor tiles covered with smooth, pink rice; Each room has a radiator before September had been through the heating, and feel some warm; kitchen range hoods and liquefied gas stoves, as well as tap water faucet and ceramic sink, a square table and a cupboard to eat; toilet is a squat toilet flushing and water washbasins. living room and bedroom and put on a double bed, living room and two sofas and a TV, the bedroom has a wardrobe, there are a few suitcases. furniture much, but more modern.
that I want to spend a year here, but also doctrine Ewenki, then sister, expressed surprise. She said: very few words, the 20-year-olds do not understand that listening to, usually we say in Chinese, you communicate with the Chinese and their is no problem, except my mother and my aunt Er Yi, as well Ah Shan Hunters a little of Mary. Cable woman not very good at Chinese, other elderly people will say basically. ; when I arrived in Hailar visited Nam Theun Ewenki Autonomous Banner Museum, where there are three different male and female costumes wax figure, representing the Solon, Tungus, Yakut three Evenki tribe. Aoluguya Ewenki hunters, long history of living in the hinterland of dense forest Daxing'anling to hunting as the main means of livelihood of forest, known as the Yakut tribes, also known as the deer department. Solon Ewenki live in the Nam Theun and CHENBAERHUQI other places (of the Hailar District), in their history to farming and animal husbandry as the main means of livelihood. our country has no Tungus tribe, this tribe is now entirely in Russian territory.
sister said to me: Now we state the only reindeer herding peoples, reindeer is a national second-class protected animals. Solon, Tunguska Ewenki long as we had such a primitive life. and we still have been in the mountains hunting the kind of primitive life. this nation only if we retained the traditional way of life, some scholars fear that we move down will lead to loss of cultural traditions, so it is worry. there is a scholar to know that we moved it the root river and cried. : to answer the position of modern civilization? hesitated for a moment she said: 2035 in order to grow up, we can go back to the old place. the move around the sites are in the root River City in the hinterland of dense forest from the northern end of the south moved to the forest steppe transition zone. request, sister taught me a few simple Ewenki, then if I have to call with Ewenki sister's mother Antalya is she was in the nearby mountains, will go home to eat and sleep at night, sister, let me point deer hunters has more than 20 kilometers away from home, and that several other hunters point than the home is fairly close, security Taer Vodafone live long in the mountains.
I first went to hunters for half an hour bumpy ride. did not get off to hear the calls of large dogs, a military green cotton canvas tent located in the mountains an open area between the tent surrounded by pine bar up and down around three tents piled pike extraoral seventy to eighty-centimeter-long cut into the wood Pan child. tent the middle of a metal furnace, long, tortuous chimney from the the top of the tent out to the side, was burned on the stove sat a black aluminum kettle, buzzing rattle. around the iron stove has four bed about one meter wide, are made of pine nailed into the rough .
this something only two families, Antananarivo, and her brother considered a leng ah, the other tenants, Arong cloth, Maru Sha couple and their two sons according to the column. looked at only four bed asleep I was thinking how can five people to take the liberty to ask the Arong cloth uncle, he does not care to say: Uncle and Aunt Maru Sha Wing cloth I have ever seen on television, the news Aoluguya relocation program that nearly everyone Ao village became a However Arong Uncle Soren Ewenki cloth. they look really great feature in common is a long thin eyes, Liansai full of tall, ears close to the temples.
Arong cloth and Maru Sha not to the 50-year-old uncle had a drink to walk because of slightly unsteadily, looking older than it actually appears. Antalya this year, over sixty, six more than a dozen specific do not know her, she said: do not remember birthdays. Ewenki words with regards to just learning them, and they are very happy, always smiling. blush scarred, stood swaying a little unstable, he knows I want a girl Aoluguya for a long time, but stay away from parents, very excited to hold my hand to the tent, I smelt a deep wine flavor. Arong cloth so I sat in the bed of the stove on the left, he was sitting behind the stove next to my bed, solemnly told me, tents Ewenki particular about the God behind the stove is the location of Marut, adult women can not last, nor a circular motion around the stove, from which side would have come out from either side.
A Wing cloth was not clear what research I came here, he told reporters as the same: alcohol make him a little incoherent excitement, while he added: ; Suddenly, he shouted Maru Sha Aunt: > Photo by columns and flute teacher with eh work, they want to build a location; leng ah and Zhang finishing pine poles and structures, people who do not work, a little bit embarrassed, he explained to me: Nenhong right forearm of a large scar, he said proudly: good. ; has basically taken shape, and Zhang explained to me, the old hunters take the circle time with a nail, to which point the wood, the white smoke rising up from the more and more dark, Maru Sha recall a strange sound of reindeer, and that deer can be really big, just like cattle, and Maru Sha arms around like a child as the mother reindeer arm around his neck, watching the people moving. Ewenki old hunters like reindeer has deep feelings for their loved ones, they played a nice give the name of the reindeer, the reindeer as their family members.
put on the dinner table, the table is actually two pieces sideways The Pan put the child on a regular round table. uncle, some of them sat on the floor, some sitting on the cross down the Pan child, made me sit on a block of wood covered with river deer skin, said only the VIP only take this, that I like a girl back to her family the same. Our dinner was almost 6:00, and the tent is no other light except the fire, lit a candle Arong cloth, I could not see the color of vegetables, do not know what chopsticks usually used in negative net, so to eat, probably because of hungry, eat something delicious.
Aoluguya town mayor told me: the difference is really. Now, some hunters still backward thinking, happens to like to stay in Hunters Point, do not want to the new location to live. What are the attractions in the mountains where in the end.
Arong next day I went to the tent fabric. uncle early in the morning is very clear, because not drinking, so he taught me to count Ewenki. I did not ask any questions because the township soon arrived in Ao, I felt the hunters are the like you did as a reporter asking questions. We have nothing to ask of life? This is how we live! to press too much, but reported a net exaggerated, not really, to have as monster hunters, hunters angry, so disgusted with journalists before. ecological migration, and Arong cloth was active after the removal of back mountains talking about the reasons for living: Because deer do not eat Yamashita, thin fast, too much death. The chicken bones feed it, it was straight into my satisfaction with their tails wagging. I point the two did not eat in the in too close, so hunters are collected guns. had all collected, because the only thing that reindeer should be captive. But in captivity have failed, we have to return to the mountains, in order to protect the reindeer defensive beast, the village to each point reimbursement of a l l small-caliber semi-automatic r r. But all collected, l r is not small-caliber top What is it, cold weather, wild beasts have long thick skin, l r small-caliber shot beat to death, but let beast run much more joy out! remaining. uncle a little drunk, but also finished, no one gave him he would curse, curse in Chinese, but also with Ewenki words, verbal abuse, he is like really angry, the tent stoves are kicking move. ladies from out into the tent, but ignore the Mamalielie uncle, or not to give him wine, he quit, as in Shuajiu Feng, Aunt Uncle put press on the ground, riding on him, hit him on the Er Guangzi, but playing nothing serious. ladies and angry and funny, his mouth, then reprove him with the Evenki, the effect that outsiders face in front of us, who want to drink like this is very shameful. do not beat Uncle Aunt by Aunt suppressed can not move, his mouth kept saying bad words, sometimes there are a few exceptionally shocked me: !, if not, he was also pressing ladies, but turned calling my name, let me, br> Aoluguya life is monotonous, I Aoluguya rural primary school children volunteer to teach English, Antalya came down, and often took me to the sect, through the eyes of the villagers are gradually changing, I feel they slowly come to accept my .10 down in mid-winter's first snow, the amount of fertile took me a pleasant Ewenki name
long winter, minimum temperature of minus forty to fifty degrees, the hunters returned to the foot of the mountains of central heating in new homes, they are the coldest winter in two to three months (December to mid-March mid) Basic Hunters Point is not live, because of the cold season, the reindeer do not need human care, they ran into scattered throughout, picking the snow looking for moss to eat. hunters up the hill just about every two weeks to see Reindeer on the trail, known the approximate location of the reindeer, so as to facilitate finding the next spring after the snow; the same time, eating reindeer moss to see is snow pressure is too real, there is no do not want to start down the mountain for the winter, finally forced her daughter received the Root River was home to over a year.
4 月份 not wait until the ice completely melted, the mountains were about to resident hunters, the busy season is about to begin. hunt people to choose a good water source, rich moss, lee sunny, convenient place to build a large deer circle back pregnant with a small Aberdeen doe, ready to Jiegao .4 to the beds the reindeer hunters in July is the busiest season, hunters house labor have to work up the mountain, this time slightly more people in the mountains a bit, the township government sent a car a few days in each hunters point, to cut down the back to the village of velvet antler processing plant.
from April , the forests give birth to a small sand-like small insects like the locals called the To pull out by hand, can only be pulled out of part of the hook barb is not flesh out the clean-up. this time, no other way, only with a knife to cut out a piece of meat off it completely cleared away. I saw a few Hunters of the neck, arm has a small round scar, they say the grass is cut out child left to climb. The most frightening thing is, some children with grass climb encompassed by the bite after half an hour can be fatal, even if the rescue in time, will slow down the language, the mind of the sequela of dementia.
child I climbed the face of grass frightened the hunters were very calm. a Mary. claim of a woman's clothes turn, fold the clothes, the skin crawl on all grass son, I was terrified, but old people are very calm to dry the hands of the job, the old man said he had never child was injured climbing over the grass. However, the dead grass climbing event sub-root River bites occur every year in recent years have played Ewenke hunters more vigorous during the day and also some hot, but more than the sun about 4 pm Mountain, the temperature will soon come down. great forest almost every day in the rain, muddy roads go bad because of the reimbursement of my new pair of shoes. hunters have Wear shoes in the mountains either military boots, rain boots either Gaotong. their shoes and bad much faster.
Gadfly shrimp this season, particularly mosquitoes, hunters had to use a few rotten wood every day, the first head rope together, taken to one kind of wet grass, lit, only smoke, no fire, to the reindeer, reindeer begin to mate, has grown into mushrooms, hunters and reindeer are feeding wild mushrooms. reindeer hunters proudly praise, saying that the reindeer are very intelligent animals, they can identify which is to avoid eating poisonous mushrooms while, They eat the mushroom hunters are also there to learn from the experience of reindeer. day of cold, reindeer are no longer children with fumes during the day and can run farther, because the reindeer like to eat mushrooms and mushrooms grow and spread, so the reindeer will run around. this time, the biggest job is to Bashansheshui hunters to find reindeer, the job hunters are generally men. hunters said: will be caught not careful, you can not hide starved, will die because of injury by the cover. Therefore, we must find out in time. they are now, said, ; time a the most complete, and where there is still not speaking Chinese leadership style of the old lady quite respected Mary. cable.
Mary. Cable Hunters Point in the depths of the forest tent set up, unlike other Hunters Point tent in the street can be seen. under the car, eyes only green forests, tall shrouded woods to avoid the day, people feel a kind of mysterious. far and near, two large dogs running in front thrust came after, followed by several young men to hunters, I am deeply shallow kick to kick with them, poke weed Tuibian bush, after a tortuous muddy trails, braving the smoke finally saw the tent.
when I first came to life on the Hunters Point is no favor. hunters jubilant set with the roe deer, I do enjoy the game buns can be I was eating fat fishy; night lying in bed the hard board, but also bear mountain mouse scratching my head. can not be encouraged to go to the toilet, because the reindeer to forage around in the tent, which like the salty children, Hunters feeding salt to it every day is not enough, who is going to facilitate it are followed.
mountains during the day is short and the nights are long, I sleep longer than a day more time awake. During the day, male hunters busy Saw Rong, the entire Pan child, female reindeer hunters busy squeezing milk, caught the deer, cooking, old lady rubbing Lu Jin line, sewing leather, baking beat out buses, only to see me walking around all right; night, a wine when the male hunters gathered in a tent, lit candles drink liquor, not wine, and I took the time to play poker female hunters.
after one point in the life of hunters, I am longing for the forest not so in particular that the two 100-year-old nursing home old sisters living on the Hunters Point, I is extremely surprised.
Mary. cloth Ao Township woman is the oldest of the elderly, she went to Da Mala is the daughter of the local forest hunters point of gold. Jinlin difficult terrain, hunters point on the slope side of the road built on top, two pale green military tents erected in the woodlands, the subtle changes as the sun flash. hillsides that a bunch of moss in this cluster, it seems moss than other hunters a lot more points, but Da Mala is still not satisfied, she complained to me: However, there are many sets of children, we hurt the deer several sets of the. this was still not as good as Ah Shan, I would like to move back. reindeer quilt death, I feel bad dead! years old, bad eyes, but the mind is still clear, she quietly sat in the tent, the weather is good, sit the entrance to the tent, she did not know Chinese, asked her why she wants to live in the mountains, she said: . two old ladies say hunters point better than the new nursing home site, although they point in the hunters can not do anything, but still prefer to stay there.
me and Mary. claim the old lady sitting in a jeep A Yongsan, the bumps along the way Britain toss over seven hours, until 5 pm only to Hunters Point and more. under the car, I Yaosuanbeiteng, nearly 80 years old lady thing, but he is not, the pace of a solid and lightweight in front, and I kicked one foot deep or shallow thrust to slow down by keeping a good distance freshman.
day mountain is static, I began to carefully understand the feeling when the hunters. In the morning, I followed Wang Ying , Neuxar to deer circle milking, helping them to catch reindeer Department of halter; noon, evening, I helped them to do lunch, dinner, and when the other woman all right with the cooked leather, sewn leather. day is good, I followed Loop male hunters to carry water, but also followed them to go a long way to adopt wild fruits son. Although still so many flies, but the hunters were right.
in the forest, the most exciting hunting hunters , excited me the most is hunting with them.
one time five of us went out with persimmon and teeth are the major mining (mountain berries child), three men and hunters are Beizhao Qiang, I and Wang British carrying mug, carrying metal buckets. walk in half way, we encountered a stick of chicken, but was preoccupied with the conversation I and Wang Ying scared. I followed a few of them in the woods and bushes in the shuttle their footsteps light, quick walk, and I was difficult and laborious, and always need to wait for their help. persimmon and mining are the major teeth, when I accidentally fell two Malaysian lying, attracted people laugh, I will forget their pain. in the woods the way the depth of uncertainty, as I can move like a bear, and they have four legs. the day we walked 20 kilometers back and forth, back to the tent, I felt exhausted at the end of the general, leg pain for three days. Another time, I am going to go hunting Vanguard really keep up with him, and he let me a place in the woods and so on. wait just how tough things, and in the dense forest of silence wait for it makes one afraid! Vanguard than an hour later when the name of my game back then, when the kind of joy and excitement is really indescribable.
we adopted son back wild fruits, the old lady made the all persimmon butter sauce and big teeth, and beautiful and tasty. After ten days, the old lady looked at me and skillfully cooked leather look, and said cheerfully: If I do not hold the attitude of outsiders, but the same as hunters, then I will live with them as natural ease. the eyes of the forest with hunters, with hunters in the sensory contact with the forest, everything becomes so beautiful, harmonious hh living in an isolated forest, is so tranquil, easy and free hh
forest is home Ewenki old hunters, not the young hunters in the. Mary. claim the old lady never do not think the foot of the house is her that can not adapt to the foot of her life, all the stool will not come out, and one to the mountains all feel so comfortable with her. Many old hunters, and I say: surprise you, I thought: l, ah, ah mountain people out there! there and we do not like people, ah! r hundreds of people, the forest resources for them is inexhaustible.
I gradually found some wisdom embodied Ewenke hunters of small details. one of our very eyes quite small square table, on four pointy feet, it is easy to leveling the land's uneven stand; do not have a line made of birch bark box nails, used to put salt, put smoke, neither will be broken, but also moisture-proof, lightweight and practical; hunters are often the mouth of his mouth, hh to the fires all the wisdom of a few. According to the calls of birds to know which side had weather, according to the reindeer reindeer droppings to know what ails, children under the hoof prints will be able to determine how big the game, which seems like a lifetime I can not figure out the Hunters there is so clear in mind.
old hunters have such an experience: In the past how are piling up the mountains to live, we all respect to hunting and hard work. But, What are reluctant to do, too lazy to incredible, The job is also not want to do something, waiting for the sky light out pie! , anyway, and I have more than two thousand pieces Vanguard monthly wages, enough for me, and Vanguard, Neuxar life, joined them at the point of release of deer hunters, is to coax the children play, they are also a little thing dry , or drink in the mountain early death. However, reindeer have to keep good, so I did not move down the reindeer, reindeer if I had not, and our nation does not exist, and now allow hunting, hunters no longer raise reindeer , but also doing? Well do not even drink Kill! assistant more than a thousand pieces per month salary, but also the guns, go up the hill hunting. has brought experience to the comfort of modern life, young people, most reluctant to point the hunters had a hard life (except for occasional mountains to hunt because This is a pastime, so hunters or the like). not to mention young people, fifty years old female hunters are unwilling to return to Glasgow to live a little.
have a few elderly people in Hong Kong and Macao amounted to W Hunters Point to visit an old professor and sitting cross-legged on the floor chatting Glasgow, Glasgow has been drunk, and asked us to drink beer. for a while, a bottle of beer you'll feel, she began to speak, is in fact made temper: She also took up the empty bottle just to drink, and made people want to drop the action. all while discouraged, and finally stopped.
Graham did not want to live in the mountains, but in the end she went to the mountains to Who live, she said, is not clear. She often went to the time interval down by my sister Bala Jie home, she complained: not make a living! your own reindeer fell on the A Yongsan stay too good. by Jay. Bala Jie was going according to his own reindeer hunters from the Arab point of moving to the root of the Longshan near the river, and later moved down to see serious loss of reindeer do not grow well, raising reindeer hunters have to move back to trend, so abandoned the original plan.
I asked hunters have thought about what kind of life, the old hunters, said: : Now,

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